Polyester knitted fabric can look perfectly flat on the roll.
But once it is cut, the edges may suddenly begin to:
- Roll inward
- Curl outward
- Twist
- Lift from the cutting table
This is a common issue in knitted fabrics, especially in single jersey constructions.
For garment manufacturers, this can create problems during:
- Spreading
- Cutting
- Sewing
- Panel matching
- Production handling
In this guide, we’ll explain why polyester knitted fabric curls after cutting, which fabric structures are more likely to curl, and how mills and garment factories can control it.
What Is Edge Curling?
Edge curling happens when the cut edge of a knitted fabric rolls away from its flat position.
The curl may happen:
- Along the width
- Along the length
- Around cut garment panels
Sometimes the fabric curls toward the face side.
Sometimes it curls toward the back side.
The direction depends on the knit structure and internal yarn tension.
Why Knitted Fabrics Curl More Than Woven Fabrics
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing yarns in two directions.
Knitted fabrics are made from loops.
Those loops contain internal tension.
When the fabric is cut, the loops at the edge lose support from neighbouring loops.
That stored tension is released.
The result can be edge curling.
This is especially common in single jersey fabric.
1. Single Jersey Is More Prone to Curling
Single jersey has an unbalanced knit structure.
The front and back sides are structurally different.
Because of this imbalance, the fabric naturally tends to curl after cutting.
Typical behaviour can include:
- Side edges curling toward one side
- Cut ends rolling in the opposite direction
This is a normal structural characteristic of many single jersey fabrics.
2. Interlock Usually Curls Less
Interlock is more balanced.
It has a double-knit structure and is generally more stable.
Because both sides are more symmetrical, the fabric is less likely to curl.
That makes interlock easier to:
- Spread
- Cut
- Sew
This is one reason interlock is often preferred where dimensional stability is important.
3. Yarn Tension Affects Curling
Knitting tension plays a major role.
If yarn tension is too high during production, more stress can remain inside the fabric.
Once the fabric is cut, that tension may release.
This can increase:
- Edge curl
- Distortion
- Panel twisting
Consistent knitting tension helps improve stability.
4. Stitch Length Matters
Stitch length controls how much yarn is present in each knitted loop.
A longer stitch length usually creates a looser fabric.
A shorter stitch length creates a tighter structure.
Both can influence curling behaviour.
If the structure is too loose or unbalanced, curling may become more noticeable.
5. Heat Setting Can Improve Stability
Polyester responds to heat.
Heat setting helps stabilize the fabric by reducing internal stress.
A properly heat-set polyester knit can show better:
- Dimensional stability
- Width control
- Shape retention
- Curl control
But heat setting does not completely eliminate the natural curling tendency of every knit structure.
6. Fabric Relaxation Is Important
Fabric can hold tension after:
- Knitting
- Dyeing
- Finishing
- Rolling
Before cutting, the fabric should be allowed to relax.
Relaxation helps the loops settle into a more stable position.
If fabric is cut immediately after unrolling, curling can be worse.
7. Rolling Tension Can Increase Curling
Fabric rolls are wound under tension.
If the roll is too tight, the fabric may remain stretched.
Once unrolled and cut, that tension is released.
This can increase:
- Curling
- Shrinkage
- Shape change
Allowing the fabric to rest before cutting helps reduce this effect.
8. Fabric GSM Can Influence Curling
Very lightweight knitted fabrics can curl more easily because they have less weight to hold the edges flat.
Heavier fabrics may stay flatter simply because of their mass.
But GSM alone does not determine curling.
Construction is still the main factor.
9. Stretch Fabrics Can Curl More
Polyester fabrics blended with elastane may have additional stored tension.
After cutting, the stretch component can pull the edge inward.
This can make curling more noticeable.
For stretch garments, proper relaxation is especially important.
Why Curling Becomes Worse After Cutting
Before cutting, the fabric is continuous.
The loops are supported by surrounding fabric.
After cutting, the edge loops become free.
That allows the internal tension to pull them out of position.
This is why curling may appear immediately after cutting even if the roll looked flat.
Problems Edge Curling Creates in Production
Difficult Fabric Spreading
Fabric may not lie flat on the cutting table.
Cutting Inaccuracy
Curled edges can affect pattern alignment.
Sewing Difficulty
Operators may struggle to align panels.
Uneven Seams
Curled edges can create tension during stitching.
Production Slowdown
Extra handling increases sewing time.
Edge Curling in T-Shirts
Single jersey polyester T-shirts are especially likely to show edge curling during production.
Typical problem areas include:
- Sleeves
- Side seams
- Neck openings
- Bottom hems
If cutting and sewing are not controlled, the curled edge can affect seam quality.
How Garment Factories Can Reduce Edge Curling
Allow Fabric to Relax
Unroll the fabric and let it rest before cutting.
Use Proper Spreading
Avoid stretching the fabric during spreading.
Use Weights or Clips
Temporary weights can help keep edges flat.
Cut in Controlled Layers
Avoid overly high fabric stacks if curling is severe.
Sew Soon After Cutting
Leaving cut panels for long periods may allow more curling.
How Mills Can Reduce Curling
Mills can improve stability by controlling:
- Yarn tension
- Stitch length
- Heat setting
- Relaxation
- Rolling tension
The goal is to reduce internal stress before the fabric reaches the garment unit.
Can Edge Curling Be Completely Removed?
Not always.
Some knit structures naturally curl.
Single jersey is the best example.
The goal is usually not to eliminate curling completely.
The goal is to keep it within a manageable level for production.
What Buyers Should Check Before Bulk Orders
Before approving knitted polyester fabric, check:
- Knit construction
- Curl tendency
- GSM
- Stretch
- Heat-setting quality
- Fabric relaxation
- Width stability
- Cut-panel behaviour
- Sewing performance
- Final garment sample
A small cutting test can reveal problems early.
Simple Example
Imagine a lightweight polyester single jersey fabric.
On the roll, it looks flat.
After cutting T-shirt panels, the side edges begin to roll inward.
The fabric is not necessarily defective.
The curling comes from:
- Single jersey structure
- Internal yarn tension
- Low fabric weight
Proper relaxation and handling can reduce the problem.
Final Thoughts
Polyester knitted fabric curls at the edges mainly because of:
Knit structure + internal tension + relaxation + heat setting
Single jersey is more prone to curling because its structure is naturally unbalanced.
Interlock and other balanced knits are usually more stable.
For clothing brands and garment manufacturers, the best approach is to test the actual fabric after cutting before bulk production.
At Walrus – Yes India Can, we work with clothing brands, garment manufacturers and bulk buyers looking for polyester knitted fabrics for T-shirts, sportswear, activewear and other apparel applications.
Fabric handling after cutting is just as important as GSM, colour and stretch when planning production.
Walrus – Yes India Can
Every Great Brand Begins With the Right Fabric.
