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Knitting Machines Explained: How Polyester Knitted Fabric Is Made
Knitted polyester fabric is widely used in T-shirts, sportswear, activewear, jerseys, track pants, casualwear and uniforms. But before polyester becomes a finished fabric, the yarn must pass through a knitting process that determines much of the fabric's appearance, stretch, texture and performance.
Knitting machines play an important role in converting polyester yarn into a continuous fabric structure. Different machines and knitting techniques can create fabrics with different GSM, stretch, surface texture, drape, breathability and appearance.
Understanding how knitting machines work can help garment manufacturers, clothing brands and fabric buyers make better decisions when selecting polyester knitted fabrics.
What Is a Knitting Machine?
A knitting machine is textile equipment that converts yarn into fabric by forming interconnected loops.
Unlike weaving, which creates fabric by crossing yarns in different directions, knitting creates fabric through loops.
This loop structure gives knitted fabrics characteristics such as:
Flexibility
Stretch
Soft hand feel
Comfortable drape
Good movement
Different surface textures
The final characteristics depend on the yarn, machine type, knitting structure and finishing process.
How Is Polyester Knitted Fabric Made?
The basic process can be simplified as:
Polyester Yarn → Knitting Machine → Fabric Formation → Dyeing → Finishing → Inspection → Finished Fabric
Each stage affects the final fabric.
1. Polyester Yarn Selection
The process starts with the right polyester yarn.
Depending on the required fabric, manufacturers may use:
Spun polyester yarn
Filament polyester yarn
Textured polyester yarn
Different yarn counts and specifications
Yarn selection influences the eventual:
Hand feel
Surface appearance
Drape
Strength
Texture
Fabric weight
The yarn must be suitable for the intended knitting structure and garment application.
2. Yarn Feeding
The selected polyester yarn is supplied to the knitting machine through controlled yarn-feeding systems.
Consistent yarn feeding is important because uneven feeding can affect the appearance and structure of the finished fabric.
During production, manufacturers control factors such as:
Yarn tension
Feeding consistency
Machine speed
Stitch formation
These settings help maintain uniform fabric construction.
3. Loop Formation
The key function of a knitting machine is to create loops from the yarn.
Needles and other machine components guide the yarn and form interconnected loops.
As the machine continues operating, these loops build into a continuous fabric structure.
The size, arrangement and density of the loops influence characteristics such as:
Stretch
Thickness
GSM
Surface texture
Drape
Breathability
4. Different Knitting Structures
Different knitting structures can produce very different polyester fabrics.
Some common knitted structures include:
Single Jersey
A widely used structure for T-shirts and lightweight apparel.
It can provide:
Soft hand feel
Comfortable drape
Good flexibility
Lightweight construction
Piqué / Lacosta
Commonly used for polo-style garments.
It can provide:
Textured surface
Structured appearance
Comfortable wear
Different levels of breathability depending on construction
Interlock
Interlock has a more stable and smooth construction compared with many single-jersey fabrics.
It can be used for:
T-shirts
Activewear
Casualwear
Premium garments
Rib
Rib structures are commonly used where additional flexibility is required, particularly for:
Collars
Cuffs
Neckbands
Fitted garments
Mesh
Mesh structures are designed with more open construction to support airflow.
They are widely used in:
Sportswear
Jerseys
Activewear
Training garments
5. Circular Knitting Machines
Circular knitting machines are widely used to produce knitted fabrics in a continuous tubular form.
The needles are arranged around a cylinder, allowing the machine to create fabric continuously.
Circular knitting machines can be used to produce many types of polyester knitted fabrics.
They are particularly common for:
T-shirt fabrics
Sportswear fabrics
Jersey fabrics
Polo fabrics
Activewear
Casualwear
Different machine settings and knitting structures can produce different fabric characteristics.
6. Flat Knitting Machines
Flat knitting machines produce fabric in a flatter format rather than continuously around a cylinder.
They are commonly associated with products requiring shaped or engineered knitted structures.
Applications can include:
Sweaters
Collars
Cuffs
Knitted panels
Shaped components
The appropriate machine depends on the product and construction required.
7. How Machine Settings Affect Fabric
Knitting machines are not simply used to create fabric. Their settings can significantly influence the final result.
Important factors can include:
Machine gauge
Stitch length
Yarn tension
Machine speed
Needle configuration
Fabric take-down
Knitting structure
Changes in these settings can affect:
GSM
Width
Stretch
Surface appearance
Fabric density
Drape
This is why two polyester fabrics made from similar yarns can still have very different characteristics.
What Is Machine Gauge?
Gauge refers broadly to the fineness or density of the needle arrangement in a knitting machine.
Different gauges are suitable for different types of knitted structures and fabric requirements.
The machine gauge can influence:
Stitch size
Fabric fineness
Surface appearance
Fabric density
However, gauge alone does not determine the final GSM or quality of the fabric.
What Is Stitch Length?
Stitch length refers to the amount of yarn used to form an individual knitted loop.
Changing stitch length can affect:
Fabric weight
Density
Stretch
Thickness
Surface appearance
Manufacturers carefully control stitch length to achieve the required fabric specification.
How Does Knitting Affect GSM?
Knitting construction has a major influence on fabric GSM.
GSM can change depending on:
Yarn specification
Stitch length
Fabric density
Knitting structure
Machine settings
Finishing
Therefore, GSM should be measured on the finished fabric rather than estimated only from the yarn.
How Does Knitting Affect Stretch?
Knitted fabrics naturally have flexibility because of their loop structure.
However, the amount of stretch varies according to:
Knitting structure
Yarn characteristics
Stitch length
Fabric density
Elastane content, if used
For example, an open mesh structure may behave differently from a dense interlock fabric.
How Does Knitting Affect Breathability?
The structure of the knitted fabric influences airflow.
Open structures such as certain mesh constructions can allow more air movement, while denser structures can provide greater coverage.
For sportswear, buyers should evaluate the actual fabric for:
Airflow
Moisture management
Comfort
GSM
Surface structure
From Knitted Fabric to Finished Garment
After knitting, the fabric may go through additional processing before it becomes suitable for garment production.
A simplified process is:
Polyester Yarn↓Knitting Machine↓Grey Fabric↓Dyeing↓Finishing↓Quality Inspection↓Fabric Roll↓Cutting & Stitching↓Finished Garment
Each stage can affect the final fabric.
Why Does Finishing Matter?
Knitting creates the basic fabric structure, but finishing can modify its final characteristics.
Finishing can influence:
Softness
Smoothness
Hand feel
Drape
Surface appearance
Dimensional stability
This is why the same polyester yarn and similar knitting structure can produce fabrics with different final feels.
Quality Checks for Knitted Polyester Fabric
After production and finishing, fabric should be inspected before being used for bulk garment production.
Important checks can include:
GSM
Confirm the actual fabric weight.
DIA
Check the usable width of knitted fabric.
Colour
Check shade consistency and colour fastness.
Surface
Look for defects, unevenness or unwanted marks.
Stretch and Recovery
Important for sportswear and fitted garments.
Width Consistency
Check whether the fabric maintains the required width throughout the roll.
Hand Feel
Evaluate softness, smoothness and overall fabric character.
Washing Performance
Where required, test dimensional stability, colour and appearance after washing.
Why Two Knitted Polyester Fabrics Can Feel Different
It is common to find two polyester knitted fabrics that look similar but feel completely different.
This can happen because of differences in:
Yarn + Machine + Knitting Structure + GSM + Finishing
For example:
One fabric may be:
Lightweight
Soft
Fluid
Highly breathable
Another may be:
Heavier
More structured
Denser
More stable
Both can still be polyester knitted fabrics.
Choosing the Right Knitted Fabric for Different Garments
Garment
Important Characteristics
T-Shirts
Softness, comfort, drape, breathability
Sports Jerseys
Lightweight construction, airflow, moisture management
Polo Shirts
Structure, comfort, surface texture
Track Pants
Stretch, recovery, drape, durability
Activewear
Stretch, recovery, breathability
Casualwear
Comfort, hand feel, appearance
Uniforms
Durability, comfort, colour consistency
The ideal knitting structure depends on the specific garment requirements.
What Should Fabric Buyers Ask Suppliers?
Before purchasing knitted polyester fabric, ask for the complete specification.
Important details include:
Fibre composition
Yarn type
Yarn specification
Knitting structure
GSM
DIA
Colour
Finish
Stretch
Recovery
Intended application
It is also useful to request a physical fabric sample before placing a large bulk order.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does a knitting machine do?
A knitting machine converts yarn into fabric by forming interconnected loops.
Which knitting machine is used for polyester fabric?
Circular knitting machines are widely used for polyester knitted fabrics, while flat knitting machines are used for specific knitted products and shaped components.
What is circular knitting?
Circular knitting creates fabric continuously using needles arranged around a cylinder.
What is single jersey?
Single jersey is a common knitted structure used for T-shirts and lightweight garments.
Does knitting affect GSM?
Yes. Yarn specification, stitch length, machine settings, density and knitting structure can all affect the final GSM.
Does knitting affect fabric stretch?
Yes. The loop structure of knitted fabric provides flexibility, while the amount of stretch depends on construction, yarn and other factors.
What is machine gauge?
Machine gauge generally describes the fineness or density of the needle arrangement in a knitting machine.
Why do two polyester knitted fabrics feel different?
Differences in yarn, knitting structure, machine settings, GSM and finishing can produce very different fabric characteristics.
Final Thoughts
Knitting machines play a critical role in converting polyester yarn into usable knitted fabric.
The basic process is:
Yarn → Yarn Feeding → Loop Formation → Knitting Structure → Dyeing → Finishing → Inspection
Different knitting machines and settings can create fabrics with different GSM, stretch, texture, breathability, drape and hand feel.
For garment manufacturers and fabric buyers, understanding the knitting process makes it easier to evaluate fabric specifications and choose the right material for the intended garment.
The final quality of knitted polyester fabric depends on the complete combination of:
Yarn + Machine + Knitting Structure + GSM + Finishing
Rather than selecting fabric based only on its name or fibre composition, evaluate the actual fabric sample and its performance before moving into bulk production.
How Polyester Fabric Is Made: From Yarn to Finished Fabric
Polyester is one of the most widely used fibres in the textile and apparel industry. It is used to produce T-shirts, sportswear, activewear, uniforms, workwear, jerseys, track pants and many other garments.
But how does polyester go from a raw material to the finished fabric used by garment manufacturers?
The process involves several important stages, including polymer production, fibre or filament formation, yarn manufacturing, knitting or weaving, dyeing, finishing and quality inspection.
Understanding how polyester fabric is made can help fabric buyers and clothing brands better understand fabric specifications such as yarn type, GSM, DIA, construction, colour and finishing.
What Is Polyester?
Polyester is a synthetic fibre commonly used in textile manufacturing.
It can be produced in different forms, including:
Staple fibre
Filament
Textured yarn
Spun yarn
These different forms can be used to create fabrics with different hand feels, textures, drape, strength and performance characteristics.
Polyester Fabric Manufacturing Process
A simplified polyester fabric manufacturing process looks like this:
Raw Materials → Polymer → Fibre/Filament → Yarn → Knitting/Weaving → Dyeing → Finishing → Inspection → Finished Fabric
Each stage contributes to the final characteristics of the fabric.
1. Raw Materials
The polyester manufacturing process begins with chemical raw materials used to produce polyester polymer.
These materials are processed under controlled conditions to create the polymer required for polyester fibre production.
For recycled polyester, the raw material can instead include recovered polyester or PET-based material, depending on the recycling process.
2. Polyester Polymer Production
The raw materials undergo chemical processing to produce polyester polymer.
The resulting polymer is prepared for conversion into fibres or filaments.
At this stage, the material is not yet a fabric. It must go through several additional manufacturing processes before it becomes a usable textile.
3. Fibre and Filament Formation
The polyester polymer is heated and processed into very fine strands.
Depending on the intended product, polyester can be produced as:
Filament
Continuous strands that can be used directly as filament yarn or processed further.
Staple Fibre
Short fibres that can later be spun into yarn.
The fibre or filament characteristics have an important influence on the eventual yarn and fabric.
4. Yarn Manufacturing
The next stage is converting polyester fibre or filament into usable yarn.
Different yarn types can be produced depending on the required fabric.
Spun Polyester Yarn
Made by spinning short polyester staple fibres together.
Filament Polyester Yarn
Made using continuous polyester filaments.
Textured Polyester Yarn
Filament yarn that has been processed to introduce additional bulk, texture or other desired characteristics.
The yarn specification can influence:
Fabric hand feel
Surface appearance
Drape
Strength
Fabric construction
End use
5. Knitting or Weaving
Once the yarn is ready, it is converted into fabric.
There are two major fabric-making methods:
Knitting
Knitting uses loops of yarn to create fabric.
Knitted polyester fabrics are widely used for:
T-shirts
Sportswear
Activewear
Jerseys
Track pants
Casualwear
Different knitting structures can create different levels of stretch, texture, drape and breathability.
Weaving
Weaving interlaces yarns in different directions to create a woven fabric.
Woven polyester fabrics can be used for:
Jackets
Uniforms
Workwear
Outerwear
Technical textiles
Other structured garments
The choice between knitting and weaving depends on the required fabric characteristics.
6. Fabric Construction
Fabric construction is an important part of the manufacturing process.
Even when two fabrics use polyester yarn, their final appearance and performance can be very different because of differences in construction.
Construction can influence:
GSM
Surface texture
Stretch
Recovery
Breathability
Drape
Coverage
Durability
This is why fabric buyers should consider more than fibre composition alone.
7. Dyeing
After fabric formation, the material can be dyed to achieve the required colour.
The dyeing process must be controlled carefully to achieve:
Consistent colour
Even dye penetration
Required shade
Colour fastness
Batch consistency
Colour consistency is particularly important for bulk garment production.
A buyer may request a specific colour based on a shade standard or approved sample.
8. Fabric Finishing
After dyeing, polyester fabric may undergo different finishing processes.
Finishing can modify characteristics such as:
Hand feel
Softness
Surface appearance
Drape
Smoothness
Performance
Depending on the intended application, different finishes may be used.
The finishing stage can significantly influence how the final fabric feels and looks.
9. Fabric Drying and Heat Setting
Depending on the fabric and manufacturing process, controlled drying and heat-setting processes may be used.
These processes can help control fabric dimensions and contribute to fabric stability.
For knitted fabrics, dimensional stability is particularly important because the fabric must maintain its intended width and shape.
10. Fabric Inspection
Before the fabric is supplied to a customer, it should be inspected for quality and consistency.
Common checks can include:
GSM
DIA
Colour
Surface appearance
Fabric defects
Width consistency
Shade variation
Construction
Hand feel
Additional testing may be required depending on the intended application.
What Is GSM in Polyester Fabric?
GSM means Grams per Square Metre.
It indicates the weight of the finished fabric per square metre.
For example:
120 GSM — lightweight fabric
160 GSM — medium-light fabric
180 GSM — medium-weight fabric
220 GSM — heavier fabric
These are general examples, and the appropriate GSM depends on the garment and fabric construction.
GSM should not be considered alone because yarn and construction also affect fabric performance.
What Is DIA in Polyester Fabric?
DIA refers to the diameter or usable width of knitted fabric.
It is an important specification for garment manufacturers because fabric width affects:
Marker planning
Fabric consumption
Cutting efficiency
Garment production
When ordering knitted polyester fabric, buyers commonly consider both GSM and DIA.
How Yarn Affects Polyester Fabric
Yarn is one of the fundamental components of fabric.
Different yarn types can produce different fabric characteristics.
Spun Yarn
Can provide a softer, more textile-like surface.
Filament Yarn
Can provide a smoother and more consistent appearance.
Textured Yarn
Can provide additional bulk, texture or softness depending on the construction.
Therefore:
Fibre → Yarn → Fabric Construction → Finished Fabric
Each stage influences the final textile.
How Finishing Changes Polyester Fabric
Two polyester fabrics can start with similar yarns but feel very different after finishing.
Finishing can influence:
Softness
Smoothness
Surface appearance
Drape
Hand feel
Structure
This is one reason why fabric buyers should evaluate actual samples before placing bulk orders.
Quality Checks Before Buying Polyester Fabric
Garment manufacturers and wholesale buyers should check the finished fabric rather than relying only on the product name.
Important specifications include:
1. Fibre Composition
Confirm the actual fibre composition.
2. GSM
Check fabric weight.
3. DIA
Confirm fabric width.
4. Yarn
Understand whether the fabric uses spun, filament or textured yarn.
5. Construction
Check the knitting or weaving structure.
6. Hand Feel
Evaluate softness, smoothness and surface character.
7. Drape
Check how naturally the fabric falls and moves.
8. Colour
Check shade consistency.
9. Durability
Evaluate the fabric according to its intended use.
10. Washing Performance
Test shrinkage, colour and appearance after washing where necessary.
Why Two Polyester Fabrics Can Feel Different
It is common for buyers to see two fabrics labelled simply as "polyester" but notice significant differences.
This happens because polyester is only the fibre category.
The final fabric depends on:
Fibre + Yarn + Construction + GSM + Finishing
For example, one polyester fabric may be:
Soft
Lightweight
Smooth
Fluid
While another polyester fabric may be:
Structured
Textured
Heavier
More durable
Both can still be polyester.
Polyester Fabric for Different Garments
Garment
Important Fabric Characteristics
T-Shirts
Comfort, softness, breathability, drape
Sportswear
Lightweight construction, moisture management, quick drying
Jerseys
Breathability, printing, comfort, durability
Track Pants
Stretch, recovery, drape, durability
Uniforms
Durability, comfort, colour consistency
Workwear
Strength, durability, easy care
Travelwear
Lightweight construction, quick drying, easy care
Jackets
Structure, durability, weight and drape
The ideal fabric specification depends on the final garment requirements.
From Yarn to Finished Garment
The textile manufacturing journey does not stop when the fabric is finished.
The overall process can be understood as:
Raw Material↓Polyester Polymer↓Fibre / Filament↓Yarn↓Knitting / Weaving↓Dyeing↓Finishing↓Quality Inspection↓Fabric Roll↓Cutting↓Garment Manufacturing
Each stage can influence the final quality and performance of the garment.
Frequently Asked Questions
How is polyester fabric made?
Polyester fabric is produced by converting polyester raw materials into polymer, forming fibres or filaments, producing yarn, knitting or weaving the yarn into fabric, and then dyeing and finishing the fabric.
What is the first step in polyester fabric production?
The process begins with raw materials that are processed to produce polyester polymer.
How does polyester become yarn?
Polyester polymer is converted into fibres or continuous filaments, which are then processed into different yarn types such as spun, filament or textured yarn.
Is polyester fabric knitted or woven?
It can be either knitted or woven. Knitted polyester is common in T-shirts and sportswear, while woven polyester is widely used for structured garments and technical applications.
What does GSM mean in polyester fabric?
GSM means Grams per Square Metre and indicates the weight of the finished fabric per square metre.
What does DIA mean in knitted polyester fabric?
DIA refers to the diameter or usable width of knitted fabric and is important for garment cutting and fabric consumption.
Does finishing change polyester fabric?
Yes. Finishing can change characteristics such as softness, hand feel, surface appearance, smoothness and drape.
Why do two polyester fabrics feel different?
Different yarn types, fabric constructions, GSM, finishing and manufacturing processes can make two polyester fabrics feel and perform differently.
Final Thoughts
Making polyester fabric is a multi-stage process that transforms raw materials into a finished textile.
The basic journey is:
Raw Material → Polymer → Fibre → Yarn → Fabric → Dyeing → Finishing → Inspection
Every stage contributes to the final characteristics of the fabric.
For garment manufacturers and fabric buyers, understanding this process makes it easier to evaluate specifications such as yarn type, GSM, DIA, construction, colour, hand feel and finishing.
Ultimately, good polyester fabric selection is not simply about choosing polyester. It is about understanding how the yarn, construction and finishing work together to create the performance required for the finished garment.