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What Is Garment Grading? How One Pattern Becomes Multiple Clothing Sizes
When a clothing brand develops a new T-shirt, hoodie, shirt, dress, or pair of trousers, the first approved pattern is usually created in only one size.
For example, a brand may develop and perfect a Medium sample first.
But customers do not all wear the same size.
The brand may need to offer:
XS
S
M
L
XL
XXL
3XL
So how does one approved pattern become a complete size range?
The answer is garment grading.
Garment grading is the process of systematically increasing or decreasing a base pattern to create additional clothing sizes while keeping the original design, balance, fit, and proportions as consistent as possible.
For clothing brands, designers, buyers, merchandisers, and manufacturers, grading is a critical stage between fit approval and bulk production.
This guide explains what garment grading is, how grade rules work, why different measurements change by different amounts, and how size-set samples are used to check the final result.
What Is Garment Grading?
Garment grading is the technical process of creating different garment sizes from an approved base pattern.
For example, if Medium is the approved base size, grading can be used to create:
Small
Extra Small
Large
Extra Large
XXL
The pattern is not simply enlarged or reduced like an image.
Instead, specific points on the pattern are moved according to predetermined grade rules.
These adjustments may affect:
Chest
Waist
Hip
Shoulder
Armhole
Sleeve
Garment length
Neck opening
Rise
Thigh
Leg opening
The goal is to maintain the intended fit and design across the entire size range.
Why Is Garment Grading Important?
Without proper grading, clothing sizes can become inconsistent.
For example:
Small may become too narrow
XL may become too long
XXL shoulders may become excessively wide
Sleeve lengths may increase too quickly
Neck openings may become too large
Good grading helps create a logical and wearable size progression.
It also gives manufacturers a clear size specification to follow during cutting and production.
What Is a Base Size?
The base size is the original size used during garment development.
For many adult garments, brands may choose:
M
L
Size 8
Size 10
The exact base size depends on the target market and brand.
The base size is usually:
Patterned
Sampled
Fit tested
Corrected
Approved
Only after the base size is approved should grading normally begin.
Why Is Medium Often Used as a Base Size?
Medium is commonly chosen because it sits near the centre of many size ranges.
For example:
S – M – L – XL – XXL
If Medium is used as the base, the pattern can be:
Graded down to Small
Graded up to Large, XL, and XXL
However, Medium is not mandatory.
A brand may use Large or another size depending on the customer profile.
What Is a Grade Rule?
A grade rule defines how much a specific measurement changes between sizes.
For example:
Chest width:
S = 50 cm
M = 52 cm
L = 54 cm
XL = 56 cm
In this example, the chest width increases by:
2 cm per size
That +2 cm is part of the grade rule.
But other measurements may increase differently.
For example:
Shoulder:
+1 cm per size
Sleeve length:
+1 cm per size
Body length:
+1.5 cm per size
Different measurements require different grade increments.
Why Doesn't Every Measurement Increase by the Same Amount?
Human bodies do not grow equally in every direction.
When a person moves from one clothing size to another:
Chest may increase more than shoulder
Hip may increase more than length
Sleeve may increase only slightly
Neck width may barely change
That is why a pattern cannot simply be scaled up proportionally.
Professional garment grading uses different increments for different points.
Simple Example of T-Shirt Grading
Here is an illustrative example:
Measurement
S
M
L
XL
XXL
Chest Width
50
52
54
56
58
Body Length
68
70
72
74
76
Shoulder
45
46
47
48
49
Sleeve Length
21
22
23
24
25
These measurements are examples only.
A real brand should create its own grade rules based on:
Customer body data
Garment fit
Fabric
Brand sizing
Market expectations
What Is Pattern Grading?
Pattern grading is the physical or digital adjustment of the garment pattern itself.
For example, a T-shirt pattern contains:
Front body
Back body
Sleeve
Neck rib
Each pattern piece contains important points.
During grading, those points are shifted:
Horizontally
Vertically
Sometimes in both directions
This creates a larger or smaller version of the pattern.
What Does a Grading Point Look Like?
Imagine the shoulder point of a T-shirt pattern.
To create a larger size, the shoulder point may move:
Slightly outward
Slightly upward or downward
At the same time:
Chest point moves outward
Hem length moves down
Armhole changes
Sleeve head changes
The exact movement is controlled by the grade rule.
Common Methods of Garment Grading
Garment grading can be done manually or digitally.
1. Manual Pattern Grading
Traditional pattern makers may grade patterns by hand.
They use:
Rulers
Grading squares
Pattern paper
Measurement calculations
The pattern maker marks new size points around the base pattern.
This method requires skill and experience.
2. Computerized Pattern Grading
Many modern manufacturers use CAD software.
CAD stands for Computer-Aided Design.
Garment CAD systems can:
Store patterns
Apply grade rules
Generate multiple sizes
Create markers
Prepare files for cutting
Computerized grading improves speed and repeatability, especially when working with many styles.
What Is Nested Grading?
When several graded pattern sizes are displayed together, they are often shown as a nest.
For example:
S
M
L
XL
XXL
The different pattern outlines appear around the base pattern.
This helps technicians visually check how each size grows.
Grading a T-Shirt
A T-shirt may require grading at:
Chest
Shoulder
Armhole
Sleeve
Neck
Body length
Bottom opening
Each area must remain balanced.
For example, increasing the chest without adjusting the armhole and sleeve can cause fit problems.
Grading a Hoodie
Hoodies are more complex because they may include:
Body
Sleeves
Hood
Kangaroo pocket
Rib cuffs
Bottom rib
When grading a hoodie, all connected components must change correctly.
For example:
If the body becomes wider, the pocket may also need adjustment.
The hood may need changes in:
Height
Width
Neck seam length
Grading Trousers and Track Pants
Trouser grading may involve:
Waist
Hip
Rise
Thigh
Knee
Inseam
Outseam
Leg opening
Incorrect grading can create problems such as:
Tight thigh
Excessively deep rise
Wrong leg proportion
Grading Women's Garments
Women's garments may require additional attention to:
Bust
Waist
Hip
Dart placement
Shoulder
Garment length
The relationship between these measurements is important for fit.
What Is a Grade Nest?
A grade nest is a visual group of all graded pattern sizes placed together.
For example, the outline of:
XS – S – M – L – XL
may be shown in one pattern view.
It allows the pattern maker to check whether:
Lines are smooth
Growth is consistent
Proportions look correct
What Is Size Grading in a Measurement Sheet?
After pattern grading, the measurements are usually recorded in a graded specification sheet.
Example:
POM
S
M
L
XL
XXL
Chest
50
52
54
56
58
Length
68
70
72
74
76
Sleeve
21
22
23
24
25
This becomes part of the garment tech pack.
How Is Grading Different From Sizing?
These terms are related but different.
Sizing
Sizing defines the size system used by the brand.
Examples:
S, M, L
28, 30, 32
8, 10, 12
Grading
Grading creates the actual pattern and measurement changes between those sizes.
Sizing tells you what sizes exist.
Grading tells you how each size changes.
How Is Grading Different From Pattern Making?
Pattern making creates the original garment pattern.
Grading creates additional sizes from that approved pattern.
The usual sequence is:
Design → Base Pattern → Sample → Fit Approval → Grading → Size Set
Why Fit Approval Should Happen Before Grading
If the base pattern is wrong, every graded size will also be wrong.
For example:
If Medium is:
Too tight
Too long
Poorly balanced
grading that pattern will spread the same problem across all other sizes.
That is why the base size should be approved before grading.
What Is a Size Set Sample?
After grading, the manufacturer may create garments in several sizes.
This is called a size set.
For example:
S – M – L – XL – XXL
The purpose is to check whether grading works correctly in real garments.
Why Is Size-Set Checking Important?
Grading may look correct on the computer but still create fit issues.
A size set can reveal problems such as:
S neck opening too small
XL sleeve too long
XXL body too wide
L shoulder incorrectly shaped
Physical sampling helps confirm whether the graded pattern works.
Do All Sizes Need to Be Sampled?
Not always.
Some brands sample:
All sizes
Others may sample key sizes such as:
Small
Large
XXL
The correct approach depends on:
Garment complexity
Order size
Risk
Brand requirements
For a new style, more comprehensive size-set checking is safer.
Grading and Measurement Tolerance
Grading defines the target measurement.
Tolerance defines how much production variation is acceptable.
Example:
Target chest:
54 cm
Tolerance:
±1 cm
Acceptable production range:
53–55 cm
Grading and tolerance should not be confused.
How Fabric Affects Grading
Fabric behaviour can influence how a graded garment fits.
Important properties include:
Stretch
Recovery
Shrinkage
Drape
GSM
Structure
A grading system developed for stable cotton jersey may not work the same way for highly stretchable sports fabric.
The final size set should ideally be tested in the actual production fabric.
Stretch Fabric and Negative Ease
Some garments are intentionally smaller than the body because the fabric stretches.
This is called negative ease.
Examples include:
Compression tops
Leggings
Performance wear
Grading stretch garments requires understanding how the fabric behaves across different body sizes.
Shrinkage and Grading
Suppose a T-shirt shrinks after washing.
If this is not considered during development, every graded size may become too small.
Brands should understand:
Length shrinkage
Width shrinkage
Wash behaviour
before approving final measurements.
Why Oversized Garments Need Their Own Grade Rules
An oversized T-shirt should not simply use the same grade rules as a slim-fit T-shirt.
Oversized garments may require specific changes in:
Shoulder drop
Chest
Sleeve
Armhole
Length
The goal is to preserve the oversized silhouette across all sizes.
Why Plus Sizes May Need Different Grading
In some size ranges, using one continuous grade rule from XS to 4XL may not produce the best fit.
Larger sizes may require adjusted rules.
This is because body proportions can change differently at larger size ranges.
Brands may therefore use:
Standard grade rules
Plus-size grade rules
depending on the target customer.
What Is a Grade Break?
A grade break occurs when the grading increment changes after a certain size.
For example:
S to XL:
Chest +2 cm per size
XXL and above:
Chest +3 cm per size
This may be used to better reflect body proportion changes.
Grading for Kidswear
Kidswear may use:
Age
Height
Chest
Waist
Examples:
2–3 years
4–5 years
6–7 years
Children's body proportions change significantly with age, so grading must account for growth patterns.
Grading for Unisex Clothing
Unisex garments require careful fit decisions.
A unisex T-shirt should be designed around the intended target audience and fit concept.
Brands should avoid assuming one standard men's pattern automatically works for everyone.
Example: How One Medium T-Shirt Becomes Five Sizes
Suppose Medium is approved as:
Chest = 52 cmLength = 70 cmShoulder = 46 cmSleeve = 22 cm
The brand sets these grade rules:
Chest = ±2 cmLength = ±2 cmShoulder = ±1 cmSleeve = ±1 cm
Then:
Small
Chest = 50 cmLength = 68 cmShoulder = 45 cmSleeve = 21 cm
Large
Chest = 54 cmLength = 72 cmShoulder = 47 cmSleeve = 23 cm
XL
Chest = 56 cmLength = 74 cmShoulder = 48 cmSleeve = 24 cm
XXL
Chest = 58 cmLength = 76 cmShoulder = 49 cmSleeve = 25 cm
This is a simplified example.
Real grading can involve many more POMs.
Why Garment Length Should Not Increase Too Fast
One common grading mistake is increasing garment length too much.
For example, if every size increases by 3–4 cm in length, XXL may become excessively long.
Grade rules need to preserve balance.
Why Shoulder Grading Needs Care
Shoulder width strongly affects appearance.
Too much shoulder growth can make larger sizes look:
Boxy
Dropped
Poorly proportioned
This is especially important in:
T-shirts
Shirts
Jackets
Why Sleeve Grading Must Match the Armhole
Sleeve and armhole patterns are connected.
If the armhole increases but the sleeve cap does not change correctly, the garment may be difficult to sew or may fit badly.
Pattern grading must preserve seam compatibility.
Checking Seam Lengths After Grading
After grading, pattern makers should ensure related seams still match.
Examples:
Front armhole and sleeve
Side seams
Hood and neckline
Collar and neckline
Waistband and waist opening
This is called pattern balance or seam matching.
Garment Grading in CAD Software
Modern CAD systems can store grade rules for repeated use.
This allows factories to:
Grade patterns quickly
Create size nests
Modify grade rules
Export cutting files
However, software does not replace technical knowledge.
Incorrect grade rules entered into software will still produce incorrect patterns.
Garment Grading and Marker Making
Once patterns are graded, they can be used for marker planning.
A marker arranges pattern pieces efficiently on fabric.
For example:
S
M
L
XL
may be combined into one production marker according to the order ratio.
Grading therefore directly supports cutting and fabric consumption planning.
Grading and Fabric Consumption
Larger sizes consume more fabric.
A graded size range helps the factory estimate:
Fabric usage
Cost
Marker efficiency
For example, XXL usually requires more fabric than S.
This affects garment costing.
Common Garment Grading Mistakes
1. Grading Before Fit Approval
Always perfect the base pattern first.
2. Scaling Every Measurement Equally
Different measurements require different grade rules.
3. Copying Competitor Size Charts
Your garment fit and customer may be different.
4. Ignoring Fabric Stretch
Fabric behaviour affects fit.
5. Skipping Size-Set Samples
Grading problems may only become visible in physical garments.
6. Using One Rule for Extremely Wide Size Ranges
Large size ranges may require grade breaks.
7. Not Checking Pattern Balance
Related seams must continue to match.
Garment Grading Checklist
Before approving graded patterns, check:
Base fit approved
Grade rules documented
Chest progression
Length progression
Shoulder progression
Sleeve progression
Neck opening
Armhole
Seam matching
Size-set fit
Fabric shrinkage
Measurement specification
How New Clothing Brands Should Approach Grading
If you are starting a clothing brand, you do not necessarily need to grade patterns yourself.
A professional:
Pattern maker
Technical designer
Garment manufacturer
can handle grading.
However, the brand should understand:
What base size is being used
What sizes are being created
What grade rules are applied
How the size set fits
Do not approve grading without reviewing the final size measurements.
Grading and Customer Size Charts
Once garment grading is finalized, selected measurements can be converted into a customer-facing size chart.
For example:
Size
Chest Width
Length
S
50 cm
68 cm
M
52 cm
70 cm
L
54 cm
72 cm
XL
56 cm
74 cm
Clearly state whether chest is:
Flat width
Full circumference
This reduces customer confusion.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is garment grading?
Garment grading is the process of increasing or decreasing an approved base pattern to create different clothing sizes.
What is a grade rule?
A grade rule specifies how much a pattern measurement changes between sizes.
What is a base size?
A base size is the original size used for pattern development and fit approval before grading.
Is grading the same as resizing?
Not exactly.
Professional grading changes individual pattern points according to technical rules rather than simply scaling the whole pattern.
Why are different grade rules used for different measurements?
Human body proportions do not increase equally in every direction.
What is a size set?
A size set is a group of physical samples in multiple sizes used to check grading and fit.
Can grading be done in software?
Yes.
Garment CAD software is widely used for pattern grading.
Does fabric affect grading?
Yes.
Stretch, shrinkage, structure, and drape can influence how graded sizes fit.
Final Thoughts
Garment grading is the technical process that turns one approved pattern into a complete clothing size range.
It begins with a properly developed base size.
From there, pattern points are increased or decreased using specific grade rules.
The goal is not simply to make every size bigger or smaller.
The goal is to preserve:
Fit
Balance
Proportion
Design
Comfort
across the full size range.
After grading, size-set samples should ideally be reviewed to confirm that the smaller and larger sizes work correctly.
For new clothing brands, understanding grading helps improve communication with pattern makers and manufacturers and reduces the risk of inconsistent sizing.
A good size range starts with a good base pattern and carefully planned grade rules.
What Is a Garment Tech Pack? Complete Guide to the Information Manufacturers Need
When a clothing brand wants to manufacture a new garment, a simple sketch is not enough.
Manufacturers need detailed instructions about the design, fabric, measurements, trims, stitching, colours, labels, prints, packaging, and quality requirements.
That complete technical document is commonly called a garment tech pack.
A tech pack helps convert a clothing idea into a product that can actually be sampled and manufactured.
For new clothing brands, learning how tech packs work can reduce confusion, improve sample accuracy, and prevent costly production mistakes.
This guide explains what a garment tech pack is, what information it usually contains, why manufacturers need it, and how brands can prepare one before production.
What Is a Garment Tech Pack?
A garment tech pack, short for technical package, is a detailed document that communicates all important product specifications from the brand or designer to the manufacturer.
It acts as a production blueprint.
A tech pack may include:
Garment sketches
Measurements
Fabric details
Colour information
Stitching instructions
Trims
Labels
Printing or embroidery details
Size specifications
Construction notes
Packaging instructions
The exact format can vary depending on the garment category and manufacturer.
For a simple T-shirt, the tech pack may be relatively short.
For a complex jacket, sportswear garment, or fashion product, it may contain many pages of detailed technical information.
Why Is a Tech Pack Important?
A tech pack helps reduce assumptions.
Without clear documentation, a manufacturer may have to guess details such as:
What fabric should be used?
What GSM is required?
What neckline construction is needed?
Where should the logo be placed?
What should the chest measurement be?
Which thread colour should be used?
What size label is required?
How should the garment be packed?
Every guess creates a risk of error.
A detailed tech pack gives the manufacturer a clear reference to follow.
It also makes communication easier when samples need corrections.
Instead of saying:
“Make the sleeve a little longer.”
the brand can specify:
“Increase sleeve length from 22 cm to 23 cm.”
This makes development more precise.
Who Uses a Garment Tech Pack?
A tech pack may be used by several people during the garment development process.
These can include:
Fashion designer
Technical designer
Pattern maker
Merchandiser
Fabric sourcing team
Sampling team
Garment manufacturer
Quality control team
Production team
Brand owner
Everyone involved can refer to the same technical information.
This helps keep development consistent.
What Information Does a Manufacturer Need?
Manufacturers usually require enough information to understand exactly what garment needs to be made.
The main sections are explained below.
1. Garment Style Information
The first section usually contains basic product identification details.
This may include:
Brand name
Style name
Style number
Product category
Season
Collection name
Gender or target customer
Date
Version number
For example:
Style Name: Oversized Essential T-ShirtStyle Number: TS-001Category: Unisex T-ShirtFit: OversizedSeason: Summer Collection
A style number helps avoid confusion when multiple garments are being developed at the same time.
2. Technical Flat Sketches
One of the most important parts of a tech pack is the technical flat sketch.
This is a clean drawing that shows the garment without a model.
Usually, both front and back views are included.
For complex garments, additional views may be required.
The sketch can show:
Neckline
Sleeves
Seams
Pockets
Zippers
Panels
Cuffs
Rib
Drawstrings
Logo placement
Stitch lines
Technical flats are different from fashion illustrations.
A fashion illustration communicates the overall style.
A technical flat communicates construction.
3. Fabric Specifications
The tech pack should clearly describe the required fabric.
Important information can include:
Fabric name
Fibre composition
Knit or weave structure
GSM
Width or DIA
Stretch
Finish
Colour
Performance properties
For example:
Fabric: Polyester InterlockComposition: 100% PolyesterGSM: 160DIA: 60Finish: Quick-dry finishColour: Black
For another product:
Fabric: Cotton Single JerseyComposition: 100% CottonGSM: 220Fit: Oversized T-shirt
The more specific the fabric requirement, the easier it is for the manufacturer to source the correct material.
4. Colour Information
Colour should be clearly defined.
Avoid instructions such as:
Dark blue
Light green
Nice brown
These descriptions are subjective.
Instead, brands may use:
Pantone references
Approved lab dips
Physical fabric swatches
Supplier shade references
For example:
Colour: Pantone 19-4006 TCX Black Beauty
When exact colour matching is important, physical approval samples are usually more reliable than screen colours alone.
5. Bill of Materials
A Bill of Materials, often called a BOM, lists all materials used to make the garment.
This can include:
Main fabric
Rib
Lining
Zipper
Buttons
Drawcord
Elastic
Labels
Thread
Hang tag
Packaging
For example:
Item
Material
Colour
Supplier / Reference
Main Fabric
Polyester Interlock
Black
Approved
Neck Rib
Polyester Rib
Black
Match body
Main Label
Woven Label
Black/White
Brand artwork
Size Label
Satin Label
Black
S–XXL
The BOM helps ensure nothing is forgotten.
6. Measurement Specification
The measurement specification is one of the most critical parts of the tech pack.
It tells the factory how large each part of the garment should be.
For a T-shirt, measurements may include:
Chest
Length
Shoulder
Sleeve length
Sleeve opening
Neck width
Front neck drop
Bottom opening
Example:
Measurement
M
Chest Width
52 cm
Body Length
70 cm
Shoulder
46 cm
Sleeve Length
22 cm
Sleeve Opening
18 cm
These values are only examples.
Actual measurements depend on the garment and fit.
7. Size Grading
If the garment is being produced in multiple sizes, the tech pack may include measurements for every size.
Example:
Measurement
S
M
L
XL
XXL
Chest Width
50
52
54
56
58
Body Length
68
70
72
74
76
Shoulder
45
46
47
48
49
This is called a graded measurement specification.
The manufacturer uses these measurements when creating or checking different sizes.
8. Measurement Tolerances
Production garments may not measure exactly the same down to the millimetre.
Therefore, brands often specify acceptable tolerances.
Example:
Chest Width: 52 cm ± 1 cm
Body Length: 70 cm ± 1 cm
Tolerances should be realistic and appropriate for the garment.
Too-tight tolerances can make production difficult.
Too-loose tolerances can create inconsistent fitting.
9. Point of Measurement Instructions
A measurement value is useful only if the factory knows exactly where to measure it.
This is why tech packs often include POMs, or Points of Measurement.
For example:
Chest Width: Measure straight across the garment 2.5 cm below the armhole.
Body Length: Measure from the highest shoulder point to the bottom hem.
Sleeve Length: Measure from shoulder seam to sleeve opening.
Clear POM instructions reduce measurement disputes.
10. Construction Details
The construction section explains how the garment should be assembled.
It may include:
Seam type
Stitch type
Stitch density
Seam allowance
Hem construction
Neck construction
Reinforcement
Bartack locations
Overlock details
Coverstitch details
For example:
4-thread overlock on side seams
Twin-needle coverstitch at sleeve hem
Neck rib attached with overlock
Shoulder tape reinforcement
These instructions can be simple or highly detailed depending on the product.
11. Stitching Instructions
Stitching affects both appearance and durability.
A tech pack may specify:
Thread type
Thread colour
Stitch type
SPI
Decorative stitching
SPI means stitches per inch.
Higher or lower stitch density can influence appearance, seam strength, and fabric behaviour.
The correct stitching specification depends on garment type and fabric.
12. Print Details
If the garment includes printing, the tech pack should include clear artwork and placement instructions.
Important details can include:
Print method
Artwork file
Print size
Print colour
Placement
Distance from seams
Printing technique
For example:
Print Type: Screen PrintPrint Size: 20 cm × 25 cmPlacement: Centre FrontPosition: 8 cm below neck seam
Without exact placement instructions, prints may appear too high, too low, or off-centre.
13. Embroidery Details
For embroidery, include information such as:
Artwork
Size
Placement
Thread colour
Stitch type
Embroidery technique
For example:
Embroidery: Left Chest LogoSize: 6 cm wideThread Colour: WhitePlacement: 8 cm from centre front, 12 cm below shoulder
A physical embroidery sample may also be approved before bulk production.
14. Label Information
Garments may require several types of labels.
These can include:
Main brand label
Size label
Care label
Composition label
Country-of-origin label
The tech pack should specify:
Label size
Material
Colour
Placement
Artwork
Folding method
For example:
Main Label Placement: Centre back neck seam
Size Label Placement: Below main label
15. Care Label Information
Care instructions should match the actual garment and fabric.
Typical information may include:
Washing instructions
Drying instructions
Ironing instructions
Bleaching instructions
Dry-cleaning instructions
Care labels may also contain:
Fibre composition
Country of origin
Manufacturer information
Size
Applicable legal labelling requirements depend on the market where the garment is sold.
Brands should confirm the relevant rules for their destination market.
16. Trims and Accessories
Trims are all garment components other than the main fabric.
Examples include:
Zippers
Buttons
Snaps
Elastic
Eyelets
Drawstrings
Cord stoppers
Velcro
Buckles
The tech pack should define important details such as:
Size
Colour
Material
Supplier
Finish
For example:
Zipper: No. 5 Nylon ZipperColour: BlackLength: 65 cm
17. Packaging Instructions
Packaging can also be included in the tech pack or a separate packing manual.
Instructions may cover:
Folding method
Polybag size
Size sticker
Barcode
Hang tag placement
Carton quantity
Carton dimensions
Packing ratio
For example:
1 garment per polybag
Size sticker on upper right corner
20 garments per carton
Clear packaging instructions improve consistency during dispatch.
18. Artwork and Logo Placement
A manufacturer should never have to guess logo size or placement.
The tech pack can specify:
Artwork file
Logo width
Logo height
Placement coordinates
Distance from seam
For example:
Chest Logo: 8 cm wide
Placement: 7 cm below shoulder seam and 9 cm from centre front
This is much clearer than simply writing:
“Put logo on left chest.”
19. Reference Images
Reference images can help explain design intent.
They may show:
Fit
Stitching style
Pocket shape
Wash effect
Fabric texture
Print finish
Garment silhouette
However, reference images should support the technical instructions, not replace them.
A manufacturer still needs exact specifications.
20. Sample Comments
During development, the first sample is rarely perfect.
The tech pack may be updated with sample comments.
For example:
Increase body length by 2 cm
Reduce sleeve opening by 1 cm
Move logo 3 cm upward
Make neckline 1 cm wider
Change rib colour to match body
Keeping sample comments documented helps prevent the same mistake from being repeated.
21. Revision History
Tech packs change during development.
A revision history records those changes.
Example:
Version
Date
Changes
V1
01-10-2026
Initial specification
V2
05-10-2026
Sleeve length updated
V3
08-10-2026
Print placement approved
This helps ensure the factory is using the latest file.
Always use clear version control.
What Is a Tech Pack BOM?
The BOM, or Bill of Materials, is one section of the tech pack.
It lists everything required to manufacture the garment.
For a hoodie, the BOM may include:
Main fleece fabric
Rib
Drawcord
Eyelets
Zipper
Main label
Size label
Care label
Thread
Polybag
Hang tag
This helps with costing, sourcing, and production planning.
What Is a Garment Specification Sheet?
A garment specification sheet mainly focuses on measurements.
A tech pack is broader.
It can include:
Design
Construction
Fabric
Measurements
Colours
Trims
Labels
Artwork
Packaging
So the measurement sheet is usually one part of the full tech pack.
Tech Pack vs Fashion Sketch
These are not the same.
Fashion Sketch
Shows the creative idea and appearance.
Tech Pack
Explains how to manufacture the garment.
A beautiful fashion illustration may inspire the product, but the factory still needs technical details.
Tech Pack vs Sample Garment
A physical sample can communicate many details, but it should not always replace documentation.
Samples can be lost, damaged, or misunderstood.
A tech pack creates a written technical record.
For best results, brands often use both:
Approved Sample + Approved Tech Pack
Why New Clothing Brands Should Use Tech Packs
New brands sometimes think tech packs are only necessary for large companies.
That is not true.
Tech packs can be especially useful for smaller brands because production mistakes can be expensive.
Benefits include:
Better Communication
The factory receives clear instructions.
Fewer Sample Corrections
Detailed specifications can reduce avoidable mistakes.
More Accurate Costing
Factories can understand materials and construction before quoting.
Consistent Production
The same specifications can be followed across different batches.
Easier Quality Control
Finished garments can be checked against approved standards.
Better Supplier Comparison
Brands can send the same specifications to multiple manufacturers for comparable quotations.
Common Tech Pack Mistakes
1. Missing Measurements
Do not rely only on sketches.
Include actual garment measurements.
2. Unclear Fabric Details
Writing only “polyester” or “cotton” is not enough.
Include relevant composition, GSM, structure, and finish.
3. No Artwork Dimensions
Always specify print or embroidery size and placement.
4. No Tolerances
Factories need to know acceptable measurement variation.
5. Poor Version Control
Make sure everyone is working from the latest revision.
6. Confusing Body and Garment Measurements
Clearly state what is being measured.
7. No Sample Comments
Record every correction made during development.
8. Using Only Reference Images
Reference photos are helpful, but exact technical instructions are still necessary.
Do You Need Special Software to Make a Tech Pack?
No.
Tech packs can be created using:
Adobe Illustrator
Adobe InDesign
Excel
Google Sheets
Figma
Tech pack software
Product lifecycle management systems
For a new brand, even a well-organized spreadsheet and technical drawing can work.
The important thing is clarity and completeness.
Simple Tech Pack Structure for Beginners
A beginner tech pack can start with these sections:
Cover Page
Style Information
Front and Back Sketch
Fabric Specification
Colour Information
Bill of Materials
Measurement Chart
Point of Measurement Guide
Construction Details
Print or Embroidery Details
Labels
Packaging
Sample Comments
Revision History
You can add more detail as the garment becomes more complex.
Example Tech Pack for a Basic T-Shirt
Imagine a brand developing a basic polyester sports T-shirt.
Style Information
Style: Performance TeeStyle No: PT-001Fit: RegularCategory: Unisex Sportswear
Fabric
100% Polyester160 GSMInterlock KnitQuick-Dry Finish
Colour
Black
Measurements
M Size:
Chest Width: 52 cmBody Length: 70 cmShoulder: 46 cmSleeve Length: 22 cm
Construction
4-thread overlock side seamsCoverstitch sleeve hemRib neck
Branding
Left chest logo8 cm width
Label
Main label at back neckSize label below
Packaging
One piece per polybag
This is a simplified example, but it demonstrates how technical information is organized.
When Should a Tech Pack Be Created?
The tech pack should ideally be prepared before sampling begins.
A common workflow is:
Design Idea → Tech Pack → Fabric Selection → Sample Development → Fit Review → Corrections → Final Approval → Bulk Production
The tech pack is updated throughout this process.
The final approved version becomes a production reference.
Can a Manufacturer Create the Tech Pack?
Yes.
Some garment manufacturers can help create technical specifications based on:
Reference garment
Sketch
Sample
Design brief
However, the brand should still review and approve the final measurements, materials, and construction.
Do not assume the manufacturer automatically understands your intended fit.
How Detailed Should a Tech Pack Be?
The level of detail depends on garment complexity.
A basic T-shirt may require fewer instructions.
A technical jacket may require detailed information about:
Multiple panels
Lining
Zippers
Waterproof seams
Hood construction
Pockets
Trims
Performance testing
A good rule is:
If a manufacturer could misunderstand something, document it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does tech pack mean in clothing?
A tech pack is a technical document containing the information required to develop and manufacture a garment.
Is a tech pack necessary for clothing production?
It is not always legally required, but it is highly useful for professional garment development and manufacturing.
What information is included in a tech pack?
Typical information includes sketches, measurements, fabric, trims, colours, stitching, labels, artwork, packaging, and sample comments.
What is BOM in a tech pack?
BOM means Bill of Materials. It lists all fabrics, trims, labels, accessories, and other components required to make the garment.
Who creates the tech pack?
It may be created by a fashion designer, technical designer, product developer, merchandiser, manufacturer, or brand owner.
Can beginners create a tech pack?
Yes.
Start with basic technical sketches, fabric details, measurement charts, construction notes, and branding information.
Is a tech pack the same as a size chart?
No.
A size chart is only one part of garment sizing information.
A tech pack contains much more information about the entire garment.
Does the tech pack change during sampling?
Yes.
Measurements, trims, artwork, and construction may be updated based on sample reviews.
Final Thoughts
A garment tech pack is one of the most important communication tools between a clothing brand and a manufacturer.
It turns a design idea into clear technical instructions.
A good tech pack should explain:
What the garment should look like
What fabric should be used
How the garment should be measured
How it should be constructed
Where branding should be placed
Which labels and trims should be used
How the product should be packed
The more clearly these details are documented, the easier it becomes to develop accurate samples and maintain consistency during production.
For new clothing brands, creating a tech pack may initially feel complicated.
But even a simple, well-structured tech pack is far better than relying on verbal instructions alone.
Clear specifications reduce confusion, improve production accuracy, and help brands build better garments.