Blog
Explore expert guides on polyester fabrics, T-shirt fabrics, GSM, DIA, fabric selection, garment sourcing and textile trends from Walrus Yes India Can, Tiruppur.
Blog
How to Read a Polyester Fabric Specification Sheet
A polyester fabric specification sheet contains important information about the fabric's composition, weight, width, construction, yarn and performance. For garment manufacturers, clothing brands and wholesale fabric buyers, understanding these specifications makes it easier to compare fabrics and select the right material for production.
A fabric may look similar to another fabric but have completely different specifications. Reading the specification sheet carefully can help avoid mistakes when ordering fabric in bulk.
What Is a Fabric Specification Sheet?
A fabric specification sheet is a document that provides important technical details about a fabric.
Depending on the supplier and fabric type, it may include:
Fibre composition
Fabric name
GSM
DIA or width
Yarn specification
Fabric construction
Colour
Stretch
Finishing
Weight
Performance information
Not every supplier uses exactly the same format, so some specifications may be missing from a particular sheet.
1. Fibre Composition
The first thing to check is the fibre composition.
For example, a specification may state:
100% Polyester
or a blended composition such as:
Polyester + Elastane
The composition tells you what fibres are present in the fabric.
This is important because fibre composition affects characteristics such as:
Comfort
Stretch
Durability
Moisture behaviour
Care requirements
Printing suitability
Always confirm the composition before placing a bulk order.
2. GSM
GSM means Grams per Square Metre.
It indicates the weight of the finished fabric per square metre.
For example:
120 GSM
160 GSM
180 GSM
220 GSM
Generally, a higher GSM means more fabric mass per square metre, but it does not automatically mean better quality.
GSM should be considered together with:
Yarn
Construction
Density
Finishing
Intended application
3. DIA
For knitted fabrics, DIA generally refers to the fabric's diameter or usable width.
It is an important specification for garment manufacturers because fabric width affects:
Cutting
Marker planning
Fabric consumption
Garment yield
Production efficiency
For example, a knitted fabric may be specified as:
DIA 60
The exact usable width should be confirmed with the supplier because finished width can vary depending on the fabric and finishing process.
4. Yarn Specification
The specification sheet may include information about the yarn used to manufacture the fabric.
Depending on the fabric, you may see information related to:
Spun yarn
Filament yarn
Textured yarn
Yarn count
Denier
Yarn specification can influence:
Surface appearance
Hand feel
Drape
Strength
Fabric texture
Two polyester fabrics can therefore have different characteristics even when both are labelled simply as polyester.
5. Fabric Construction
Fabric construction tells you how the fabric has been produced.
For knitted polyester fabrics, examples may include:
Single Jersey
Piqué
Interlock
Rib
Mesh
Honeycomb
Different constructions create different characteristics.
For example, mesh can provide a more open structure, while interlock generally provides a more stable and compact construction.
Construction should always be considered alongside GSM and yarn specification.
6. Fabric Width
The specification sheet may list fabric width separately from DIA.
Width is important because it affects how efficiently fabric can be used during garment cutting.
When comparing suppliers, check whether the listed width is:
Tubular width
Open width
Finished width
Usable width
This distinction can be important when calculating actual garment consumption.
7. Colour
Colour information may include:
Colour name
Colour code
Shade reference
Pantone reference
Lab-dip reference
For bulk production, colour consistency is particularly important.
A colour name such as "Navy" or "Royal Blue" may not be sufficient for production approval.
For important orders, use an approved physical sample or shade standard.
8. Finishing
A specification sheet may mention the type of finishing applied to the fabric.
Finishing can affect:
Softness
Smoothness
Hand feel
Drape
Surface appearance
Dimensional stability
For example, two polyester fabrics with similar GSM and construction can feel different because of different finishing treatments.
9. Stretch
If the fabric contains elastane or has a stretch construction, the specification may provide stretch information.
This can be particularly important for:
Activewear
Leggings
Track pants
Sportswear
Fitted garments
You may need to check both:
Stretch — how much the fabric extends.
Recovery — how well the fabric returns toward its original dimensions.
A fabric with good stretch but poor recovery may not be suitable for garments that need to maintain their shape.
10. Weight
Some specification sheets may provide fabric weight in addition to GSM.
Be careful to understand exactly what the listed weight represents.
For fabric purchasing, GSM is generally more useful for comparing the weight of the finished fabric per square metre.
If a supplier gives a weight specification that is unclear, ask them to clarify the measurement basis.
11. Performance Properties
Some specification sheets may include additional performance information.
Depending on the intended fabric, this could include:
Breathability
Moisture management
Quick drying
Stretch
Recovery
Colour fastness
Abrasion resistance
Pilling performance
Dimensional stability
Not every fabric specification sheet will contain all of these properties.
Where a particular performance characteristic is important, ask for the relevant test information rather than assuming it from the fabric name.
12. Fabric Finish and Hand Feel
Technical specifications don't always fully describe how a fabric feels.
A specification may tell you:
100% Polyester / 180 GSM / DIA 60
but this does not completely tell you whether the fabric feels:
Soft
Smooth
Dry
Crisp
Fluid
Structured
Textured
For this reason, a physical fabric sample is extremely useful when evaluating a material.
13. Understanding a Sample Specification
Imagine a polyester fabric specification looks like this:
Specification
Example
Fibre
100% Polyester
Construction
Single Jersey
GSM
180
DIA
60
Yarn
Polyester
Colour
Navy
Finish
Soft Finish
Application
T-Shirts
This tells you several important things.
100% Polyester
The fabric is made from polyester.
Single Jersey
It uses a knitted construction commonly used for apparel.
180 GSM
The finished fabric weighs approximately 180 grams per square metre.
DIA 60
The knitted fabric has a specified diameter/width that should be confirmed with the supplier.
Soft Finish
The fabric has undergone finishing intended to influence its hand feel.
T-Shirts
The supplier indicates an intended application, but the final suitability should still be evaluated based on your garment requirements.
14. Don't Judge Fabric Only by GSM
One common mistake among new fabric buyers is assuming:
Higher GSM = Better Fabric
This is not always true.
For example:
A 160 GSM sportswear fabric may be more suitable for a lightweight jersey than a 220 GSM fabric.
Similarly, a 220 GSM fabric may be preferable for another garment where greater body or coverage is required.
The correct GSM depends on:
Garment type
Climate
Construction
Comfort requirements
Performance requirements
Target price
15. Don't Judge Fabric Only by DIA
DIA is important for production, but it does not tell you everything about fabric quality.
Two fabrics can have the same DIA but different:
GSM
Yarn
Construction
Hand feel
Stretch
Drape
Performance
Always read the complete specification.
16. Check the Fabric Sample Alongside the Specification
The best approach is to use the specification sheet together with a physical fabric sample.
Check:
Visual Appearance
Does the surface look consistent?
Hand Feel
Does it feel as expected?
Drape
Does it fall correctly?
Stretch
Does it have the required flexibility?
Recovery
Does it return to shape?
Colour
Does it match the approved shade?
Surface
Are there visible defects?
Washing
Does the fabric maintain its appearance after washing?
17. Questions to Ask Your Fabric Supplier
If something is unclear on the specification sheet, ask the supplier:
What is the exact fibre composition?
What is the actual GSM?
What is the usable DIA or width?
What yarn is used?
What is the fabric construction?
What finishing has been applied?
Does the fabric have stretch?
What is the recovery performance?
What are the colour-fastness results?
Is the specification consistent throughout the bulk roll?
Can you provide a physical sample?
Can you provide relevant test reports?
These questions can help reduce misunderstandings during bulk purchasing.
18. Why Specification Sheets Matter for Bulk Orders
A fabric specification sheet becomes especially important when ordering large quantities.
It helps buyers compare:
Supplier A vs Supplier B
based on measurable specifications rather than appearance alone.
It can also provide a reference for checking whether the delivered fabric matches the agreed requirements.
For repeat orders, maintaining the approved specification and sample can help improve consistency between batches.
Quick Fabric Specification Checklist
Before approving a polyester fabric, check:
✅ Fibre composition
✅ GSM
✅ DIA / usable width
✅ Yarn specification
✅ Fabric construction
✅ Colour
✅ Finishing
✅ Stretch
✅ Recovery
✅ Hand feel
✅ Drape
✅ Breathability
✅ Durability
✅ Washing performance
✅ Relevant test reports
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a polyester fabric specification sheet?
It is a document containing technical information about a polyester fabric, such as composition, GSM, DIA, yarn, construction, colour and finishing.
What is the most important specification?
There is no single most important specification. GSM, DIA, yarn, construction and performance should be considered together based on the intended garment.
Is GSM the same as fabric thickness?
No. GSM measures fabric weight per square metre. Thickness and hand feel can vary depending on yarn and construction.
What does DIA mean in knitted fabric?
DIA generally refers to the diameter or width specification of knitted fabric. The exact usable width should be confirmed with the supplier.
Why is yarn specification important?
Yarn characteristics can influence the fabric's surface, hand feel, drape, strength and overall performance.
Should I buy fabric based only on the specification sheet?
No. Use the specification sheet together with a physical sample and, where necessary, appropriate test reports.
Final Thoughts
Learning to read a polyester fabric specification sheet makes fabric purchasing much easier.
The most important specifications to understand are:
Fibre Composition + Yarn + GSM + DIA + Construction + Colour + Finishing + Performance
But specifications are only part of the decision.
For garment manufacturers and wholesale buyers, the best approach is to compare the technical specification with the physical fabric sample and confirm the material meets the requirements of the final garment before placing a bulk order.